Ender 3 first print under extrusion

Ender 3 first print under extrusion

Combs, Ph. In my last post I journaldocumented my experience assembling my new Creality Ender-3 3D printer. As I mentioned in that post, I have no experience with 3D printer and have no idea what to do first. Luckily, a video from 3D Printing Canada was just what the doctor ordered.

More posts to come. Like my previous post, this post will be in a journal format.

Ender 3 Pro: Initial Setup and Recommended Prints

There is a fair amount of wobble in my 3D printer. The steps to loosen the base brackets worked for me and I only had to loosen and tighten the left bracket. The video says I should not be able to rotate the idler by hand. I can, so I need to tighten it per the instructions. In my case, this means rotating the nut counter-clockwise. About a quarter turn and the roller is perfect. This seems like a step I will need to do regularly so I need to pay attention to this one.

I need a business card or a post-it note. Now where can I find one of those? Alright, have a post-in note and I need to feed a pet; be back in a bit. Back to the video.

ender 3 first print under extrusion

Turn the printer on. Got it. Place the print head at one corner of the build surface on top of the bed level adjustment dial. I should be able to move paper under the print head but with some slight resistant. Okay, that seems right. Just a slight amount of drag as I pull and push paper between the print head and the build surface.

Now I repeat for the remaining three adjustment dials. Next, I adjust the opposite corner. Since this was an out of the box leveling, it took some time to get it right and I had to repeat the process a couple of times. Still not sure its perfect, but I will get better over time. The first step is to move the head high enough from the build surface so I can purge some of the filament:.I love my Ender 3 but I just can't print on it no matter how much effort I put into it because it seems like I have some serious under extrusion.

My slicer is Cura. Everyone knows Cura does the preparatory two lines at the side of the bed. These lines seem fine for the most part.

Handling Extrusion Issues on the Ender 3

However, the further into the print I get, the less filament that gets extruded, which is why the lines are fine, because they are the first thing to be printed. I only allowed it to print on square, since there wasn't enough filament to print the others also because I couldn't bare watching it print at that quality!

I really don't know what to try anymore - I have exhausted all of what I can think of, and I am getting pretty desperate. Please ask for any more info, I will be happy to provide it. Every bit of help is appreciated, Dream. Note: the 'bentness' of the prints is just where I have taken them off the bed. I also canceled the print too early as you can see in the right hand print - there's no adhesion problems. Don't know if anyone will see this response - might make a new post. It seemed to have worked just for that print.

Anyway, long story short, I did some things, and got it extruding again, but the print quality was almost exactly how it was in the photos of the original post. So I'm sitting there thinking 'what is there to do now? I feel like i have tried everything'. I did the generic mm, print mm etc etc. When using this, I do get 20mm left over. Looking around on the internet, it seems that this is too high.

There's a lot of mentions of the gear slipping or what not. I couldn't see any of this when I was doing the calibration.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. It only takes a minute to sign up. I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully.

The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer.

ender 3 first print under extrusion

I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1"x1"x1" test cube.

I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:. Checking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament. Clearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.

Trying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3. Increasing the extrusion rate. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.

Trying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that.The Ender 3 is a great 3D printer. It is inexpensive and is a good starting printer as well as a great reliable printer for more advanced users. It is easy to upgrade and there is a large community surrounding its use.

ender 3 first print under extrusion

One thing that I see often is that people are having printing issues caused by under- or over-extrusion. Over-extrusion causes items to be bigger than intended not good when you need pieces to fit together precisely.

Under-extrusion can cause poor layer lines and even bad adhesion on layers. The stock bowden tube that comes on the Ender 3 has a inner diameter that is a little too big. This allows the filament to move around slightly in the tube which causes stringing issues as well as other extrusion issues.

Luckily, there is an easy fix. They come highly recommended from many 3D printing experts. I cannot agree more.

Since we're replacing the bowden tube, now is also a good time to replace the inferior bowden tube couplers on the Ender 3. These are known to slip and allow the bowden tube to pop out in the middle of a print, causing it to fail.

Remove the fan housing from your hotend. Heat your hotend and remove the filament from the printer. I use a socket from this set.

This is in preparation for ensuring that the new tube is flush against the back of the nozzle. Disconnect the stock bowden tube from the heatsink by pushing the tab in and then pushing the bowden tube in and then immediately pulling it out.

It may take some effort as the tube is inserted all the way down to the back side of the nozzle. If you can't pull the tube out, you can unscrew the coupler from the heatsink using the wrench that came with the printer and pull it out that way.

Be careful as the end of the tube will be hot. Replace the couplers on the extruder and heatsink. Cut your Capricorn tubing to the correct length I used half of the tube.We participate in the Amazon affiliate program and may earn a commission if you make a purchase through links on our site.

We also participate in other affiliate programs. The Creality Ender 3 series of 3D printers is one of the best value options out there. However, that does not mean that it has no faults or it is a picture-perfect machine for 3D printing purposes.

All filament printers have certain issues that need must be addressed if they are to work at their prime, day in day out. There are many ways to determine if your machine is under extruding. But first, you will have to figure out what the term actually means as such.

View original image on Reddit. Basically, under extrusion is said to occur whenever there is too little filament being extruded during a 3D printing process. This can result in missing layers, large gaps, insufficiently small layers, and sometimes even heaps of tiny little holes or dots in layers. Both print quality, as well as print strength, is heavily compromised whenever under extrusion occurs.

It can make a small statue of Skeletor look like a glabrous mess. Or it can puncture so many holes in your build that it would look like Swiss cheese! Needless to say, such builds are utterly useless and you will have to spend a lot of time and effort scraping the mess of the hot end. Even if the build is acceptable quality and shape, it might look sharp and there may be many small lines running all over it.

Apart from everything else, it wastes a lot of filament and also increases the wear and tear on your Ender 3 machine. However, it does not have to be this way at all. There are plenty of easy fixes that can get rid of all of your under extrusion 3D printing related problems, once and for all.

Many people new to the world of 3D printing tend to overlook both overall flow rate and printing temperature. It is very simple really. Here, you will have to start by increasing the flow rate of the melted filament by 5 percent.

If you get the desired results all well and good.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. It only takes a minute to sign up. I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3.

Serious under extrusion on prints.

Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints. I thought "hey, could be the file" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.

I looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though. Releveling the bed and making sure the bar was parallel to the bed resulted in a perfect first layer.

Ender3 Budget Basic Upgrades - New Bed, Aluminum Extruder \u0026 some Thingiverse Improvements

Lost steps and under-extrusion could not be replicated after 48 hours of rest for the printer. I have no idea why the print had failed due to under-extrusion during the print, but apparently, my immediate tests were flawed enough to not detect the first layer height resulting in getting almost no extrusion.

This I mistook for massive under-extrusion, making me believe something else was at fault. Sounds similar to something I experienced with my Y-axis. The grub screw on the toothed wheel had come a little loose, and I was experiencing a reasonably consistent degree of slip. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Sudden underextrusion on Ender3 Ask Question. Asked 2 years, 1 month ago.

Active 2 years, 1 month ago. Viewed 4k times. Now, suddenly during a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude. I cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.

Subscribe to RSS

What might be wrong and how can I fix it?! Edit: Touching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back almost quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it. Inspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks. Trish Trish Have you tried swapping the stepper motors?

Active Oldest Votes. In the extruder particularly, these locking screws might not be too obvious to check.The Ender 3 Pro comes partially assembled. The base of the printer containing the print bed and the Y axis back and forth control as well as most of the wiring are already assembled before leaving the factory.

To finish putting the printer together will require connecting the remaining parts to the base using less than 2 dozen bolts, and then plugging up a few wires to the various motors. The instructions that come with the printer do not have words, just pictures.

Fortunately several decades of assembling Lego kits served me well in figuring out what needed to be done. Once you unpack everything you will need to attach the uprights to the base. Then you connect the gantry arm to the uprights. The gantry will control the X left and right and Z up and down axis movement. Once that is completed, you only have a few more bolts to tighten up and a couple of wires to plug in and your printer is ready to start printing.

Sorry that I did not take pictures of the assembly process, but the process is straight forward and the images in the instruction manual are easy to understand. I will be linking to a bunch of different 3D print files that I found on Thingiverse. I do not have affiliation with any of these authors except myself lolI am simply providing access to the files I used to set up my printer.

If you want to use different test prints feel free to look around, there are lots of options. Once the printer is assembled the next vital step is to make sure the bed is level in relation to the print head. There are 4 knobs, one on each corner of the bed, that will raise and lower that corner.

Turning the knob to the left raises the bed towards the print nozzle, turning it to the right lowers the bed. To properly space your bed away from your nozzle, you want them close enough together that when you have a single sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle there should be a slight amount of friction when you try to move the paper.

It is a simple test that prints 3 passes around the perimeter of the bed and then it prints a filled circle at each of the corners as well as the center of the bed. Push the button on the printer after testing each corner the printer says something like "waiting for user" to go on to the next corner.

After stopping at each corner twice, it will print several skirts around the bed you can continue to adjust height as needed as the skirts printthen a disc in each corner and a disc in the middle to check adhesion. There are literally thousands of videos available on youtube regarding 3D printing. I watched a lot of different videos to learn about the printer that I got and how to set it up to get the best results.

One of the better youtube channels that I found was Teaching Tech. Michael does a great job of clearly explaining each test and how making changes to the printer will affect your print results.

The arms print at increasing angles of overhang from 10 to 80 degrees. If you look closely at the picture of the backside of the arm you will see that it is not until after 60 degrees that the print starts to get ripply yep. This will make sure that your extrusion temperature is set correctly so that you are able to bridge sort distances without support without sagging or delamination of the layers.

Stringing happens when there is too much pressure in extruder and melted plastic leaks out during movement in free space. There are 3 majors values, which you are going to adjust to remove stringing : retraction, temperature and travel speed. This tests the ability to make crisp clean corners and tapers. This tests the ability to make fine lines and grooves. Tests the accuracy of the scale of the circles outer and inner diameters of each circle are listed. This test the quality of the print at different temperatures.

Every 5 mm the extrusion temperature is reduced by 5 degree Celsius, starting at degrees and going down to degrees. PLA seems to be a very forgiving material and my tests at different temperatures were very similar, no perceptible change in bridging or detail quality between the different temperature layers. The second photo on this step is an obvious fail using PETG filament that comes from the Heat tower post on Thingiverse.

You can clearly see the print quality reduced dramatically at each step the farther away it gets from the degree extrusion temperature.

Posted by Shazahn


Sie lassen den Fehler zu. Geben Sie wir werden besprechen.

Leave a Reply